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LILY COLE

  • FILMS
    • DIRECTING
    • ACTING
  • WORDS
    • ARTICLES
    • BOOKS
  • IMAGES
    • OF LILY
    • BY LILY
  • WHO CARES WINS
    • ABOUT
    • THE BOOK
    • Podcast
    • Research
  • Impossible Ideas
  • Contact

 WHO CARES WINS

 

Lily spent four years researching this book, and interviewing hundreds of people around the world who are working on environmental solutions, from technologists and scientists, to activists and indigenous leaders.

Lily actively seeks out different perspectives within sometimes polarised debates, to try and foster dialogue and deep listening.

The book offers a comprehensive summary of all the different ways that people, organisations, academics and companies are thinking about positive change, from carbon-sucking machines, mushroom leathers and sky diamonds, to indigenous wisdom, shared paternity leave and universal basic income.

Who Cares Wins is a guide for action; a beacon of hope and dialogue in challenging times.

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PENGUIN EDITION
RIZZOLI PHOTOGRAPHIC EDITION
AUDIOBOOK
 
 

EXTRACTS

On carbon sucking machines (published by Penguin):

‘Imagine if the dinosaurs or the dodo had directed their own swansongs,’ Cole writes. ‘We may become the first species to document our own extinction.’

‘People make plays, songs and paintings about the crisis. Look, I’m writing this, a book about the ways in which people are trying to halt the Sixth Mass Extinction. Because another possibility exists – we could become the first species to prevent a mass extinction.

‘Dwell on that.’

Throughout the book, Cole shares the insights of visionary humans around the world who are working on solutions to our biggest challenges. In the passage below she investigates the possibilities of capturing and repurposing one of Planet Earth’s greatest pollutants.

‘The rain didn’t come that year. Later in the year, things began to die. The landscape changed. Big trees became big skeletons. It was droopy, grey and barren, lost and creepy to look at, a burnt-out house, a cinder. I gave up waiting and I mourned. One day I was standing at the back of the house and I looked up at the solar panels. I was still mad, perplexed, and I just thought: why can’t those solar panels also take in carbon dioxide or whatever is causing this problem?’

In the basement of her home-turned-studio in uptown San Francisco, Mary Fernando Conrad is pinning a thick yellow wire to an old drawer. She is getting ready for her upcoming exhibition, titled ‘What is Shakespeare in a Time of Climate Change?’ in which she plans to display a ‘gismo that removes carbon dioxide’ from the environment.

Will the gismo actually work?

Mary has been trying for a few years to engineer something functional – a domestic appliance, tile, surface or paint – that will absorb atmospheric carbon dioxide, but it turns out that is a tall and expensive order.

Instead her sculpture speaks to a nascent boom of interest in machines capable of removing carbon dioxide from the environment. Can technological wizardry save the day? Will robot-run laboratories, Artificial Intelligence or carbon-dioxide-sucking machines fix the problem? Can technology play God?

In their 2018 report, the UN International Panel on Climate Change called for 100 billion to 1000 billion tons of carbon dioxide to be removed from the atmosphere this century. Researchers and entrepreneurs are vying for solutions. This fits into a broader investigation, often called ‘geo-engineering’ – large-scale, technical (but risky) ways to ‘solve’ climate change.

Whilst we were discussing Mary’s ideas, my daughter ran outside and started watering the ferns, which trembled gently in the breeze. ‘It’s a beautiful garden!’ she exclaimed. It was. Moving my attention between her and the gismo, offered an apt metaphor for the paradox techno-utopia finds itself in: whilst it is hugely invigorating (and increasingly necessary) to consider carbon-capturing machines and human-made solutions, are we overlooking the much simpler solutions on our doorsteps: ferns, plants, trees, soil – all the miraculous technology of nature itself?

We are made of carbon; we breathe it, burn it and dream of other carbon beings. As carbon dioxide boils the bath we live in, carbon-sucking machines have lit up the imaginations of environmentalists, capitalists and the fossil fuel hungry alike, and emerged as a foetal reality.

Klaus Lackner at the University of Arizona was the first person to explore the removal of carbon dioxide (CO2) from thin air – called ‘direct air capture’ – in the 1990s. He built an ‘Artificial Tree’ out of a resin that absorbs CO2 at one thousand times the rate of nature, and advocates building 100 million of them to match the amount of CO2 the world currently emits annually.

In Switzerland, Climeworks operate the world’s first commercial direct air-capture plants. Their machines use turbine fans, powered by waste heat, to filter thousands of tons of CO2 annually from ordinary air, turning it into a concentrated form sold for commercial use, or pumped underground.

Dan Nocera, a Harvard chemist, has developed an ‘Artificial Leaf’ which replicates photosynthesis with ten times the energy efficiency of nature; and a ‘Bionic Leaf’ which can produce carbon-neutral fuels and fertilizer. He claims his technology can create cheap, off-grid, solar-powered and carbon-neutral fuels from sunlight, water and air, whilst extracting carbon dioxide from the air in the process.

Nocera has had a hard time gaining traction for his products in the West as the ‘trillions of dollars’ that we have already invested in fossil-fuel power technology make it hard for new fuel products to compete economically. Instead he has decided to focus his efforts on the lower-income world, working in partnership with a university in India, where there are fewer ‘sunk costs’ to overcome. ‘People say, it’s nice you are helping poor people,’ Nocera explains, ‘and I say, no, poor people are trying to help me.’

 
 
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On fashion (published by House Notes & The Guardian):

‘There is a funny photo of me, aged around ten, in a handmade outfit, wearing a misspelt ‘DON’T WER FUR’ sign. Then there are a few photos of me aged fifteen, before I felt bold enough to say no, walking down catwalks with the soft vestiges of a dead animal circling my neck. Eventually saying no to fur cost me work, but it was a fairly straightforward choice to make: a little box on contracts, usually appearing next to ‘No Nudity’.

At seventeen, I found myself caught up in a more complex dilemma, drawn into a controversy regarding a jewelry company I was working with which had been accused of exploitation and persecution of the San – or Bushmen – in Botswana by diamond mining in their historical homeland.

To try to learn more about the situation, I met with Dr James Suzman, an anthropologist who had been living with the San on and off for over twenty years. In the midst of our intense, long conversation, James asked whether I wanted to come out to Botswana and see things for myself. My eyes lit up, and a few weeks later I was on a plane with my older sister, Elvie, headed south.

We spent ten days traveling around Botswana, discussing the impacts of diamond mining with San members, NGOs and politicians, and my mind flipped from one perspective to the next like a fish out of water. The San had been living as gatherer-hunters on the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, the second-largest such reserve in the world, for an estimated 200,000 years. In 1997 the government of Botswana relocated three quarters of them into resettlement camps outside the reserve. Though these evictions were declared illegal in 2006, hunting had also been prohibited nationally, making the San’s traditional gatherer-hunter lifestyle impossible to practice. Successive Botswanan governments have denied it but many advocacy groups believe the reason for the San’s resettlement was to enable diamond mining.

Since independence in 1966, Botswana has been a politically stable multi-party democracy, and has seen decades of economic growth driven mainly by its diamond industry. It went from being one of the poorest countries in the world in the late 1960s, with a GDP per capita of $70, to having the highest GDP per capita in Africa – $18,825 – by 2015. The situation offered a textbook utilitarian dilemma and forced me to consider lots of questions I couldn’t answer. What are the consequences of economic development? Do the potential positives, such as investment in education and healthcare, outweigh the priceless costs of environmental and cultural degradation? Who gets to decide?

On that trip to Botswana, I had discovered extraordinary pieces of jewelry handmade out of ostrich eggshells. The fragility of these objects reflected the fragility of the communities behind them: it would take the San women several months to make each item, then they would typically sell for very low prices, haggled down by the odd passing traveller. It struck me that the San’s jewelry could be exported to the West and bring a good income back into the community, so James Suzman and I enlisted a friend to help set up a trading route in London. A few months later I returned to Africa to model the collection, which began to sell for much higher prices, with all the profit going back to the San. It was, accidentally, my first direct experience of Fairtrade.

This experience in Botswana marked me: compelling me to think more deeply about the impact not just of my own purchasing choices but also of my work. As the poster girl for different products, I felt an enormous responsibility to understand and respect what I was selling. I wasn’t just buying a company’s products, I was asking other people to buy them too.’

….

‘Unless you live in an entirely self-sufficient way, everything we touch, eat and use is connected to a complex web of trade relationships that we are responsible for being part of. When we make a purchase, we are explicitly supporting that way of doing business by giving a company our money; we are funding them keeping going.

Of course, the power of money lies not just in how you spend it, but also in how you earn it, save it and invest it. Many of us want to earn our money working for – or setting up – companies that are looking to solve problems. Employees often have the greatest leverage to change the working practices inside companies, and there has been a boom in social businesses and new legal structures that seek to remodel a new vision of capitalism. My journey in thinking about these issues began when I was plunged head first into the epicentre of consumerism: fashion.

I was always a fairly material girl: I remember trawling Portobello Market from a very young age, begging my mum to buy me a trinket. I had a penchant for dressing up, and second-hand clothes were my palette. Mum’s answer was usually no, met by hysteria. But sometimes she would give in and buy it.

Then a store opened in Kilburn selling new clothes at unbelievably cheap prices: T-shirts for £1, dresses for £3. I saved my Christmas money and would fill up one of their big baskets until it was so heavy I could barely lift it. I never considered how clothes could be made so cheaply. It was as if they had dropped from heaven.

And one day, my life changed. I was walking in Soho with friends when a man approached us, holding a little white card and said something about modelling. I pocketed the card and let my heart spring under a cautious face.

My mum took me into the modelling agency the first time. I was given a big blue book, which would be filled with pictures of me: I was to become my own travelling saleswoman. I had just turned 14 and the blue book was heavy with possibilities.

Fashion offered a fairytale for my inner child, and initially I indulged it without question. I made money and friends, and fulfilled my dream of travelling. Yet it also offered me a surprising gift: an education in capitalism.’

 
 
 

On gender equality (published by The Plant):

 
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RECEPTION

“A call to action for a better future.” The Observer Magazine

“Uplifting and much-needed.” Stylist, Best Summer Reads of 2020

“So profound and refreshing. In our increasingly polarised and partisan world, it’s rare to read a piece of non-fiction without a fiercely won conclusion. Like a bag of pick ‘n mix, ‘Who Cares Wins’ is a medley of disparate ideas, stories and ambitions: space travel, communes, rewilding, fairtrade toasters and cities made from carbon capture diamonds. The principle is not dissimilar from Project Drawdown: known as ‘the most comprehensive plan ever proposed to reverse global warming’ while avoiding the pitfalls of becoming a textbook. Project Drawdown is an encyclopedic list of environmental solutions, ranked by the gigatons of CO2 they can reduce; likely written for executives, not individuals. Whereas ‘Who Cares Wins’ is a story book and manifesto, littered with breathtaking language and personal anecdotes.” Eco-Age Magazine

“A positive, useful book – how to make choices. We need to get governments on board. I wish Lily was world controller.” Vivienne Westwood

“Who Cares Wins is full of generosity from the author and a call to its readers that more can be possible if we imagine it and care about who wins in every choice we make.” Chelsea Clinton

“This is a book for the moment, to inspire us to create a better society after the pandemic. We must not return to the old normal. The optimism that Lily Cole articulates so well requires us to insist on a revival of the future.” Professor Guy Standing

“A welcome and thorough overview of some of the many aspects of the crisis humanity is now facing alongside the visionary possibilities for change at our fingertips. If we don't act it isn't for lack of good ideas.” Dr Gail Bradbrook, co-founder of Extinction Rebellion

“Lily's commitment to a better future for fashion is legendary, and her first-hand experience of an exploitative and unethical industry have made her involvement both more poignant and pertinent. How wonderful to absorb her thoughts and knowledge on everything else, from food to fuels, politics and biodynamic farming. This book is a great insight into her mind, and into our world.” Orsola de Castro, Creative Director of Fashion Revolution

“Who Cares Wins is a literary submarine which allows you to descend into the deep depths of environmentalism to show you the truth with refreshing clarity and honesty. A deeply personal and yet universal call-to-action on one of the most profound subjects of our time.” Bella Lack, environmental campaigner

“Who Cares Wins is a journey into the anthropology of radical optimism. Lily Cole delicately unpicks the silver linings from some of the many dark clouds that loom over us and weaves them into an irresistible vision of our future.” James Suzman, anthropologist and author

“A great read, fundamentally important subjects elegantly explored through a personal perspective. I relished the optimism!” Steve Trent, Environmental Justice Foundation

“Lily Cole's Who Cares Wins is a rollercoaster of a ride where, thanks to her excellent piloting, we get to see a varied landscape of ideas and schools of thought on how to tackle the climate and ecological crisis, each with their insights but also their limits. Thankfully, this isn't another prescriptive "how to save the planet" book by doing your bit. Rather, it is an open and honest invitation by a curious mind for us all to build bridges. Cole rightly concludes so much more can happen if we explore our predicament and collectively allow ourselves to imagine a better future.” Farhana Yamin, environmental lawyer

“Vocal about environmental and humanitarian causes from a young age, Cole’s passion for activism has been poured into every page, addressing weighty world issues from fast fashion to gender equality.” Marie Claire

“Too bad we can’t clear up the environment as fast as Lily Cole can. She explains why we’re in this mess and what we can do about it brilliantly.” Ruby Wax

“ ‘Who cares wins’ should be the mantra of every citizen around the world - every revolution has been made by people who cared. The sustainability or ethical movement is about “caring” - for the planet and for the people, and Lily is a shining example of a person who always deeply cares and whose mind never rests until there is a solution. There are people who have visions, and people who act on them. Lily does both and this book is a true testament to that.” Livia Firth, Creative Director of Eco Age

“Lily Cole, through her personal experience, interviews with fascinating people and a critical insight to our planet’s problems helps us understand the power of the individual and makes us fall in love with nature again. No more the relentless, morbid doom-mongering, Lily gives us so many reasons to be optimistic, and shows that we can all make a difference and together we can save our beautiful Earth.” Professor Mark Maslin, Professor of Earth System Science at UCL and author of The Human Planet